HOW TO PICK A SADDLE
SADDLE SCIENCE AND SADDLE FITTING -- HOW DO I FIND MY BEST SADDLE?
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THE “SCIENCE” OF SADDLE SELECTION
HOW DO I CHOOSE A SADDLE? DOES PRESSURE MAPPING HELP?
There is no perfect scientific way to find the best bike saddle for you. Every person is different, with a unique shape to their pelvic bones, buttocks, legs, and genitals. The best saddle technology is live pressure mapping, which consists of a pressure-sensitive mat that fits over the saddle and can record your actual pressure points (and level of pressure) as you are riding your bike. However, that technology does not suggest specific saddles or allow you to reliably pick from the hundreds of models that crowd the market. Research has shown that each saddle must be tested for at least 15-30 minutes to even get reliable data. Ultimately, we have found pressure mapping only about 50% reliable in predicting the comfort (or lack thereof) of any particular saddle. Still, we recommend saddle pressure mapping, if available: not only will you learn where your pressure points are, you will probably get some valuable information about your bike’s fit and whether you are sitting properly and stable on your bike. Most importantly, WE RECOMMEND PROFESSIONAL BIKE FITTING BEFORE YOU EXPERIMENT WITH VARIOUS SADDLES; that's because a faulty bike position can cause almost ANY saddle to feel uncomfortable. So, get your position sorted first, then see us if you need saddles to test. We recommend IBFI-certified bike fitters, as they have the expertise and experience to do excellent fitting. Finally, no saddle will be perfect (or last) forever -- saddles wear out after several years, and your body will change over time. Don't be surprised if today's perfect saddle becomes a torture device a few years down the road.
THEN HOW DO I FIND THE RIGHT SADDLE? DOES SIT BONE WIDTH MATTER?
Many bike shops have tools (usually some kind of bench) for measuring the width of your sit bones. You can also measure yourself at home, using a simple piece of cardboard: SQlab Saddle Fit Kit & DIY Instructions | Ride a Bike Pain Free (sqlab-usa.com). If you do this measurement, be sure to sit the way you do on your bike: if you ride in an aggressive aero position, it’s important to measure in a similar position on any measurement bench. However, these measurements are often not very accurate, and only provide a rough guide to your ideal saddle width. Still, they can be a reasonable starting point: obviously, someone with narrow hips doesn’t need a very wide saddle, and vice versa. Keep in mind that SADDLE width measurements are taken AT THE WIDEST PART OF THE SADDLE, which is NOT where your sit bones rest when you ride – they should be on TOP of the saddle, so they can be supported and cushioned by the seat itself. Therefore, we generally recommend that you start by looking at saddles that are about 20-30 mm WIDER than your sit bone measurement. Generally, the more upright you sit on the bike, the more width you’ll need, so add about 25-35 mm; if you’re an aggressive rider who leans well forward, add 15-25 mm to start. Keep in mind also, that saddle shape will make some saddles feel narrower or wider than their measured width. A saddle that curves or slopes down on the sides will usually “act” narrower, while a flatter saddle will feel wider for the same width.
ROAD, GRAVEL, MTB SADDLES? WHAT ABOUT RIDING AEROBARS OR A TRIATHLON BIKE?
Road, gravel, and mountain riders generally ride in similar positions, with weight on their sit bones -- so there is no need to restrict yourself to one "type" of saddle. "Gravel" and "MTB" specific saddles may have a bit more padding to soak up shocks; and may have tougher covers to survive scrapes. However, riding aerobars is completely different from riding more upright on a road or mountain bike. When you ride on aerobars, you (should) roll your hips and pelvis forward – which means you may no longer be sitting on your “sit-bones,” which are the ischial tuberosities of your pelvis. Instead you may be sitting more on your pubic arch and perineum – which are much more sensitive areas. In this case, measuring sit bone width will be almost useless – your pubic arch is much narrower than your sit bones, and almost impossible to measure [although saddle pressure mapping may help]. Sadly, this means that choosing a saddle for aerobars almost always requires significant trial and error. Again, go wider if your position is relatively upright; narrower if you ride in a very low aero position. TT-or Triathlon-specific saddles will be your best choice for aerobar riding, as they have a generous central cutout (or split nose) and some cushioning in the front.
SHOULD I PAY ATTENTION TO THE SADDLE RAILS AND MOUNTING?
Virtually all saddles are made with the same rail spacing, so they'll fit all bikes. However, there are two main types of saddle rails: metal and carbon. Most saddles -- including all of the least expensive models -- have metal rails for attachment to your bike. These rails can vary in length, but they are always round in cross section and 7 mm in diameter. Any 7 mm round metal rails will fit most standard bike seat post mounts: if your bike came with a metal-rail saddle, any other metal-rail saddle will fit. Metal rails can vary in the metal composition: some are made of steel, others titanium (which is lighter), and others are alloys such as chromoly. Generally, the lighter the rails, the more expensive the saddle. Carbon fiber rails, however, usually have a different shape: they are oval, 7 mm wide x 9 mm tall. They are usually lighter even than titanium rails, so are often preferred by racers. Carbon rails are not quite as strong as metal ones, so carbon-rail saddles often have a rider weight limit (usually around 200-250 pounds) for safe use. Many bikes have seat clamps that will NOT accept carbon rails. ALL OF OUR TEST SADDLES HAVE METAL RAILS; IF YOU CURRENTLY HAVE CARBON RAILS, YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOUR CLAMP CAN ALSO ACCEPT ROUND METAL RAILS (some can, some can't). If you test a metal rail saddle, you can still purchase a carbon-rail version -- the shape and padding will be identical...only the rail material changes. However, you then have to make sure your clamp will accept oval-shaped carbon rails -- many standard clamps do not. We generally recommend sticking with metal rails, as it makes changing and testing saddles much easier; the weight saving with carbon rails is usually not worth the extra expense (often $100-150 extra) and hassle.
WHAT ABOUT SADDLE CUSHIONING?
Saddle cushioning is a personal decision, based on your size, sensitivity, and how much you ride. While it's counterintuitive, we generally recommend LESS cushioning the LONGER you ride, because excessive cushioning will allow your sit bones to move up-and-down and become painful: sit bones usually need stability to be comfortable over long distances. Other rules of thumb include more cushioning for heavier riders and more cushioning for riding on rougher surfaces. Of course, more cushioning means a heavier saddle, so most racers prefer less cushioning to save a few ounces -- not an important factor for most riders. Another consideration is age: very often we lose some natural buttocks cushioning as we age --- so don't be surprised if you need a little more cushioning as you get older.